The traditional dress of Kashmir is the Pheran (also spelled Phiran). It’s a long, loose gown worn by both men and women in the region, designed to protect against the cold, especially during the harsh winters. The Pheran has been a staple of Kashmiri attire for centuries, with influences from Persian and Central Asian cultures.
Here’s a breakdown of the Kashmiri traditional dress:
For Women:
- Pheran: Typically extends to the knees or sometimes even to the feet. It’s a loose upper garment, wide at the sleeves, and traditionally made of wool or a blend of wool and cotton.
- Designs: Women’s Pherans are often more elaborately designed with colorful flower-like embroidery, especially around the collar, pockets, and hemline. This intricate needlepoint embroidery is known as “Tille” work, often using thin metal threads of gold or silver.
- Waistband: Ankle-length Pherans are often tied at the waist with a folded cloth called a Lungi.
- Headscarf: Muslim women often wear a headscarf as part of their attire. Hindu women traditionally wear a headdress called “Taranga” on their wedding day, which is a brightly colored scarf stitched to a suspended cap, narrowing down the back.
- Suthan/Shalwar: Since the late 19th century, loose suthans (similar to shalwars) or churidar pajamas from the Punjab region have become popular as lower garments worn with the Pheran, although traditionally, the Pheran was worn without a lower garment. The Kashmiri suthan is baggy and loose.
- Jewellery: Traditional Kashmiri jewelry is often intricate and uses semi-precious gemstones, showing influences from Afghani and tribal designs. Notable pieces include the Atta haar (worn by Pandit women), Jiggni, and Tikka (types of maang tikka).
For Men:
- Pheran: Similar to women’s Pheran but generally simpler in design without the colorful embroidery. It’s a long, loose woolen gown. Men often carry a traditional fire pot called “Kangri” inside the Pheran during winter to stay warm.
- Historically, the men’s Pheran also extended to the feet, but modern versions are often knee-length.
- Kurta and Shalwar/Pyjama: In summer, men might wear a kurta (long shirt) with a loose shalwar or pyjama. This outfit is sometimes referred to as the “Khan Dress” or “Pathani suit.”
- Waistcoat (Sadri): A woolen or silk waistcoat called a Sadri is often worn over the kurta.
- Headgear: Muslim men typically wear a skullcap. Traditional Hindu men (Pandits) sometimes wear a turban, although its use is now limited.
Key characteristics of the Pheran:
- Warmth: Primarily designed for Kashmir’s cold climate, Pherans are often made of wool to provide insulation. Cotton versions are worn in the summer.
- Loose Fit: The loose design allows for comfortable movement and space to carry the Kangri in winter.
- Embroidery: Especially on women’s Pherans, intricate embroidery (“Tille” or “Kashida”) adds beauty and cultural significance. Motifs are often floral or inspired by nature.
- Cultural Significance: The Pheran is deeply rooted in Kashmiri culture and is a strong symbol of Kashmiri identity.
While modern trends have seen a rise in the popularity of shalwar kameez and other styles, the Pheran remains a significant and cherished part of the traditional Kashmiri attire for both men and women and has even seen a revival in contemporary fashion with modern adaptations